Controlair mac app6/30/2023 ![]() Is it useful if you are painting drawings with your AB? I don't know, probably not. ![]() You can also blow air on to a piece of paper by slowly suppressing the trigger to see how much air is coming out. Roll finger tip over trigger, not pressing it down with finger. ![]() When you are more comfortable, increase the spring tension for better control as you pull trigger back. Softer tension for easier control in the beginning but makes maintaining airflow harder as you pull the trigger back. The way I use to practice is with water, minimum airflow, slowly pull back trigger (rolling the tip of my finger off the trigger) and listen to the hissing of the Airbrush. It is even harder to maintain different airflows as I will need to remember how much I turn the thing. Parts also comes in all shape and sizes, sometimes I just need to reduce airflow and get into some odd place on the piece, putting the part down then playing with the MAC valve is just not practical when you consider painting >50 pieces. As a modeler, I usually have to hold the part in one hand and my airbrush in the other, so the MAC valve is just frustrating to use. H&S on the other hand actually increases airflow in relation to how much I suppress the trigger. With Japanese airbrushes I can either have low airflow or full blown, pretty useless. I have only find success in doing so with the H&S airbrushes (Infinity & Evolution). I rarely fiddle with pressure once I've got my start-of-session calibration over with, and I have no idea what others are doing or why that they feel they need this ability. And if I can't, it's usually changing reduction rather than pressure that makes the better difference. If I've got things reduced and dialed in for fine lines, I can still do broad strokes, just with maybe extra passes. TBH, as I've gotten more experienced, I've found there isn't a need for that sort of thing anyway. A mac valve or benchtop regulator will give you much better control. In theory one could design an airbrush to be used this way, but normal airbrushes aren't, so the difficulty is so high that it's not worth it. In practice it overcomplicates your finger technique and acts as a stumbling block to slow down learning. Trying to do this again now, I find I can't because all my brushes I actually use have soft springs now, so there's no tactile feedback to help me find and hold a given position. Basically the only way to control the super fine increments of valve pressure was for me to pinch the trigger between thumb and index finger. Back when I used to do this, I had to use a non-standard grip to do so. Didn't have access to people I could Q&A with, so bad info could stick around if it wasn't explicitly mentioned in the stuff I found to read.īased on that experience, Id say the same as others here: it's technically possible, but the margin for control is so fine (because of the tiny travel of the air valve) that it's extremely difficult. Making it run your tasks slower as a result.I used to think one was supposed to do this back when I started airbrushing. However, the lowering of the frequency also lowers the performance capabilities of the CPU. This lowering of frequency allows the CPU to run less power and in turn run cooler thus lowing the operating temperature. If a CPU starts to run at too high of an operating temperature, it will have to throttle its frequency to a lower setting. That being said, even Apple is a prisoner to the hardware specs. It ensures that your Mac being a MacBook, MacBook Pro or even a Mac Pro can function with decent capabilities while maintaining stability and safe operating temperatures. As mentioned, Apple does its homework when it comes to what fans should run at what speeds for the amount of heat and power being produced and used. If you are one to leave well enough alone, then this is not something you'd want to delve in to. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |